During the same period as the Burgundian fashion you find these dresses in illuminated books.
This is a part of "Illustration of mining" by Robinet Testard. The same dress you can find in manuscripts like Giovanni Boccaccio De Mulieribus Claris (Bibliotheque national de France, Francais 599) and Roman de la Rose (Bodleian Library MS Douce 195)
She wears lined over-kirtle with long sleeves. Under the over-kirtle she has a kirtle with a hem flounce. We can see a purse hanging from a belt underneath the over-kirtle. She has a scarf pinned in the neckline and she wears a tailed cap.
Sarah Thursfield (the Medieval Tailors Assistant) describes the kirtle seen under the garment as a sleeveless flat fronted kirtle, with waist-seem and side lacing (page 91). The flat-fronted, S Thursfield says, was worn under the tighter revealing gowns. Its construction created the characteristic high cleavage.
On the other hand she presents another type (page 85) shown in the illustration of Dancing Peasants.
The women to the left is dressed like the previous female miner with the only difference that she has a round neckline and no scarf. In the middle a women dancing without her over-kirtle and we can see a regular front-laced fitted kirtle with short sleeves and a hem flounce. We can also see that the men wear a looser doublet.
Probably miners had more status and money then peasants and therefore not the same type of dress.
On every image with this kind of dress you see this close-fitted over-kirtle but rarely showing what kind of lacing the kirtle has. In Boccaccio's De Mulieribus Claris (Bibliotheque national de France, Francais 599) you'll get a hint.
The first is Thisbe reading a book, having a front-laced shirt with a nearly invisible lacing. Then its Veturie in red, which has loosen her lacing on her front-laced kirtle. Epicharis in green has a side-laced dress and at last Arachne, which you don’t se any lacing at all, but at the side you see a hint of a seam. Arachne's dress is also interesting because it’s a short-sleeved over-kirtle. The sleeve of her smock is tight and you can see a short seam at the wrist, could it be a lacing? The red kirtle shown must be a sleeveless kirtle and then probably a flat-fronted one.
Another illustration from Roman de la Rose shows a short-sleeved over a long-sleeved kirtle.
I can’t find any image of a short-sleeved over a long-sleeved kirtle that reveals if they wear three layers of kirtles or if it’s just the smock underneath.
This illustration from Roman de la Rose shows two layers: the smock and a long-sleeved kirtle. Probably they weren’t always wearing the flat-fronted kirtle in between the layers, it was surely depending on the weather.
Here we can see some more of the accessories they were wearing. She's wearing a par of female hose, some form of sandals and on the floor lays an open hood with a long liripipe.
On this last illustration from Roman de la Rose you see a black partlet covering the neckline and an fabulous turban on her head.
To do list for the french 1450-1500s style:
- Flat-fronted kirtle with a hem flounce
- Long-sleeved kirtle with lining
- Short sleeved kirtle with lining
- Female hose
- Tailed cap
- Open hood